Easy 1930’s Crochet Purse – FREE Vintage Crochet Pattern – La Mode Bag

La Mode Crochet Bag
La Mode Crochet Bag
La Mode Crochet Bag

La Mode Crochet Bag

La Mode Crochet Bag: A Timeless and Stylish Accessory

The La Mode Crochet Bag is a beautiful reflection of 1930s fashion, designed to complement any outfit with a touch of vintage elegance. This bag is both functional and stylish, featuring intricate crochet work that showcases the artistic craftsmanship of the era. Made with Raphael Brand Gimp, the bag is sturdy and durable while maintaining a delicate and sophisticated appearance. Its size is perfect for carrying daily essentials, making it as practical as it is attractive.

Creating the La Mode Crochet Bag is a rewarding experience for both beginner and experienced crocheters. The straightforward instructions guide you through the process of constructing the bag, including its unique handles and decorative embellishments. While some sections, like attaching the frame or lining, may present a slight challenge, these steps can be easily learned with patience and practice. The result is a stunning, vintage-inspired bag that feels like a piece of art.

This bag isn’t just an accessory; it’s a statement. Whether you choose to use it as a daily handbag or as an elegant touch for a special occasion, the La Mode Crochet Bag is sure to draw admiration. Its classic design makes it a timeless addition to your wardrobe, and the joy of crafting it yourself adds a personal touch that no store-bought bag can replicate.


This pattern is transformed, adapted, and expanded from a public domain design originally published in Bags and Hats Crocheted with Raphael Brand Gimp No. 5 (1939). While the original design is in the public domain, the rewritten instructions and supplementary content on this site are ©Tiffany Bliss Mullins, 2024. All rights reserved. Have questions about this pattern, public domain, or copyright? Visit the FAQ page for answers and resources.

Discover more timeless designs from this vintage collection by exploring Bags and Hats Crocheted with Raphael Brand Gimp No. 5 (1939), where you’ll find all the patterns from this classic booklet.

If you would like to read more about the vintage material, gimp, as well as find some modern substituions please read our article: What is Gimp?

Key Details:

  • Pattern Name: La Mode Bag
  • Original Publication Year: 1939
  • Publisher: Fraser Manufacturing Company
  • Source: Bags and Hats Crocheted with Raphael Brand Gimp
  • Public Domain Notice: This pattern is in the public domain.
  • Modern Updates: Language, instructions, and formatting have been adjusted to use modern terms and for clarity

Materials

  • Yarn: 8 tubes of “Raphael Brand” Gimp (original).
  • Modern Suggestion: Use a sturdy cotton cord, raffia, or a heavy worsted-weight yarn that achieves a similar gauge and structure. Read more about substitutions here.
  • Lining Fabric: Use your fabric of choice but just be sure to have enough to fully line your finished bag.
  • Slide Fastener (Zipper): Length to fit your bag’s opening.
  • Ornament Button: For decorative closure.
  • Crochet Hook: Size suitable for your chosen yarn (adjust hook size to achieve desired gauge and stiffness).

Stitches & Abbreviations

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • pc (Popcorn Stitch): See “Popcorn Stitch Instructions” below
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)

Turning Chains

  • When working a row of sc: Chain 1 to turn.
  • When working a row of dc: Chain 2 to turn.

Popcorn Stitch Instructions

  1. Work 5 dc in the same stitch.
  2. Remove the hook from the loop.
  3. Insert the hook into the first of the 5 dc made.
  4. Pull the dropped loop through this stitch.
  5. Chain 1 to lock the stitch.

Important: Do not work into the chain-1 that locks the Popcorn Stitch.


Pattern Instructions

Back of Bag

  1. Foundation Chain: Chain 76.
  2. Row 1 (sc row):
  • Make 1 sc in the second chain from hook.
  • Continue with 1 sc in each chain across (total of 75 sc). Turn.
  1. Row 2 (dc row):
  • Make 2 dc in the first stitch, then 1 dc in the next stitch.
  • Popcorn Repeat: (1 pc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 6 stitches).
  • Repeat from * to near the end of the row.
  • Finish with 1 dc in the next-to-last stitch and 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn.
  1. Rows 3–5 (sc rows):
  • Make 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each stitch across, and 2 sc in the last stitch. Turn.
  1. Row 6 (dc row):
  • Make 2 dc in the first stitch, then 1 dc in each of next 5 stitches.
  • Popcorn Repeat: (1 pc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 6 stitches).
  • Continue this sequence to the end, finishing with 1 dc in each of the next 5 stitches, then 2 dc in the last stitch. Turn.
  1. Rows 7–9 (sc rows): Work same as Row 3 (2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across, 2 sc in last stitch).
  2. Row 10 (dc row):
  • 1 dc in each of the first 3 stitches.
  • Popcorn Repeat: (1 pc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 6 stitches).
  • End with 1 dc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn.
  1. Rows 11–13 (sc rows):
  • Make 1 sc in each stitch across. Turn.
  1. Rows 14–22:
  • Repeat Rows 10–13 in sequence.
  1. Rows 23–25 (sc decrease rows):
    • Skip the first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across, skip the next-to-last stitch, then 1 sc in the last stitch. Turn.
  2. Row 26 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of first and last 7 stitches before and after each popcorn repeat sequence.
  3. Rows 27–29 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  4. Row 30 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 4 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  5. Rows 31–33 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  6. Row 34 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in the first and last stitch before and after the popcorn sequences.
  7. Rows 35–37 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  8. Row 38 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 5 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  9. Rows 39–41 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  10. Row 42 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 2 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  11. Rows 43–45 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  12. Row 46 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 6 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  13. Rows 47–49 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  14. Row 50 (dc row): Same as Row 10.
  15. Rows 51–53 (sc rows): Same as Rows 11–13.
  16. Row 54 (dc row): Same as Row 10.
  17. Rows 55–57 (sc rows): Same as Rows 11–13.
  18. Row 58 (dc row): Same as Row 10.
  19. Rows 59–61 (sc rows): Same as Rows 11–13.
  20. Row 62 (dc row): Same as Row 10.
  21. Rows 63–64 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  22. Row 65 (sc row): Same as Rows 11–13 (1 sc in each stitch across).
  23. Row 66 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in the first and last stitch before and after the popcorn sequences.
  24. Row 67 (sc decrease row): Same as Rows 23–25.
  25. Row 68 (sc row): Same as Row 65 (1 sc in each stitch across).
  26. Row 69 (sc decrease row): Same as Rows 23–25.
  27. Row 70 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 6 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  28. Rows 71–72 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  29. Row 73 (sc row): Same as Row 65.
  30. Row 74 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 4 stitches before and after the popcorn sequences.
  31. Rows 75–76 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  32. Row 77 (sc row): Same as Row 65.
  33. Row 78 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 2 stitches.
  34. Rows 79–80 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  35. Row 81 (sc row): Same as Row 65.
  36. Row 82 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 7 stitches.
  37. Rows 83–84 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  38. Row 85 (sc row): Same as Row 65.
  39. Row 86 (dc row):
    • Same as Row 10, but make 1 dc in each of the first and last 5 stitches.
  40. Rows 87–88 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  41. Row 89 (sc row): Same as Row 65.
  42. Row 90 (dc row): Same as Row 10.
  43. Rows 91–93 (sc decrease rows): Same as Rows 23–25.
  44. Fasten off after Row 93.

Front of Bag

  • Work the same as the first 57 rows of the Back.
  • End off.

Join Front and Back: With right sides facing each other, use slip stitches along the wrong side starting from Row 44 to Row 57 to join both sides securely.


Gussets

  1. Attach yarn at Row 57 on the right side of the bag’s opening. Chain 1.
  2. Row 1 (sc row): Work 1 sc in each row around the opening. Chain 1, turn.
  3. Rows 2–6 (sc rows): Work 1 sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Do not fasten off.

  • Join this gusset to the bag with slip stitches on the wrong side.
  • Repeat on the other side of the bag opening to make the second gusset.

Finishing

  1. Insert Zipper and Lining: Sew in the slide fastener (zipper) and your chosen fabric lining.
  2. Make a Loop:
  • Chain a length that fits comfortably around your chosen button.
  • Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across.
  • Fasten off. Sew the loop to the appropriate spot on the bag opening.
  1. Attach Button: Sew the button opposite the loop for closure.

Tips for Modern Crocheters

  • Gauge: While no specific gauge is provided in the original pattern, aim for a tight fabric to maintain structure. Adjust hook size or yarn weight to achieve desired stiffness.
  • Substitutions: If “Raphael Brand” Gimp is unavailable, try using raffia, cord, or a modern bulky cotton yarn. You can find more suggestions for alternative materials here.
  • Finishing Touches: Experiment with decorative linings, zippers, or additional embellishments to personalize your bag.

1939 Meets Modern Day

You’ve now recreated a 1939 classic with modern flair! This La Mode Bag pattern is ideal for crocheters who love timeless style and intricate texture. Remember to share your finished creation on social media or with fellow crochet enthusiasts—celebrating vintage patterns keeps our crochet heritage alive and thriving.


Disclaimer: This pattern has been adapted from its original 1939 text for clarity and modern use. It resides in the public domain, and we are pleased to share it here for free. You can read more about copyright essentials here.