The Mandarin Hat is a sophisticated piece of vintage-inspired millinery, blending classic knitting techniques with structured design elements to create a unique and timeless accessory. Featuring a mandarin-style crown, detailed stripe and drop-stitch band, and delicate sequin and bead embellishments, this hat exudes elegance and attention to detail. With its wired frame and buckram reinforcement, it holds its shape beautifully, making it a standout piece for formal occasions or as a vintage statement.
Originally crafted in the 1950s, this hat reflects the era’s emphasis on meticulous craftsmanship and refined fashion. The combination of textured stripes, decorative stitches, and structural components highlights the ingenuity of mid-century millinery. The sequins and beads add a touch of sparkle, while the grosgrain ribbon and carefully shaped crown lend an air of sophistication, making this hat as functional as it is beautiful.
This updated pattern makes it accessible for modern crafters, with simplified instructions and options for personalization. Whether replicating the original design or adding your own creative touches, this project allows you to explore the artistry of vintage millinery while creating a truly unique and elegant accessory. Perfect for special events or as a collector’s item, the Mandarin Hat is a timeless piece of handmade fashion.
This pattern is transformed, adapted, and expanded from a public domain design originally published in Hats by Beehive Knitted and Crocheted (1950’s era). While the original design is in the public domain, the rewritten instructions and supplementary content on this site are ©Tiffany Bliss Mullins, 2024. All rights reserved. Have questions about this pattern, public domain, or copyright? Visit the FAQ page for answers and resources.
Key Details
- Type: Knitted and assembled hat with a structured mandarin-style shape, sequined accents, and a wired frame.
- Size: Head size 22 inches.
- Gauge: 9 stitches and 11 rows = 1 inch in Stockinette stitch.
- Features: Knitted crown and band, detailed stripe and drop-stitch pattern, embellished with sequins and beads, finished with millinery wire and grosgrain ribbon for structure.
Materials
- Yarn:
- 1 oz of fingering-weight yarn in Black.
- 1 oz of fingering-weight yarn in Grey.
- Knitting Needles:
- Set of 4 double-pointed needles, US Size 1 (2.25 mm).
- Ribbons:
- Black grosgrain ribbon, 2 inches wide: 25½ inches.
- Black grosgrain ribbon, 1 inch wide: enough to fit the desired head size plus a 1-inch seam allowance.
- Millinery Supplies:
- Black buckram: 9-inch square.
- Black taffeta: 10-inch square.
- Millinery wire: 2 pieces, each 27½ inches long.
- Beads and Sequins: Black sequins and steel beads.
- Other Tools: Scissors, sewing thread (black), beading needle, tapestry needle, iron, and damp cloth for pressing.
Pattern
Crown
- Foundation:
- With Black yarn, cast on 216 stitches (72 per needle) across 4 double-pointed needles. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.
- Rounds 1–3: Knit 3 rounds.
- Round 4: (Knit 25, K2tog); repeat from * to the end of the round.
- Knit 1 round.
- Round 6: (Knit 24, K2tog); repeat from * to the end of the round.
- Knit 1 round.
- Continue Decreasing: Decrease as established, knitting 1 stitch fewer between decreases every alternate round until 16 stitches remain. (K2tog) 8 times. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and fasten securely.
- Lightly press the crown to a circle measuring 8½ inches in diameter.
Band
- Foundation:
- With Black yarn, cast on 19 stitches. Work in the following stripe pattern:
- Rows 1–3:
- Row 1 (WS): Knit 1, purl across to the last stitch, knit 1.
- Row 2 (RS): Knit the first 2 stitches in Black, twist Grey over Black on the WS, and knit the rest of the row in Grey.
- Row 3: Knit the first stitch in Grey, purl across to the last 2 stitches, knit the last 2 stitches in Black.
- Repeat Rows 2 and 3 once more.
- Drop-Stitch Pattern:
- Row 6: With Black, knit 5, drop the next stitch down 4 rows to the Black stitch of Row 1, knit through the dropped stitch and all 4 Grey loops to gather, knit 3. Repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, drop the next stitch as before, knit the last stitch.
- Continue Pattern:
- Work Rows 1–12 as established, creating the stripe and drop-stitch pattern.
- Repeat this sequence until the band measures 25½ inches in length and 2½ inches in width.
- Finish:
- Cast off in purl using Black yarn. Lightly press the band on the wrong side to ensure it measures correctly. Sew the back seam to form a circle.
Assembly
- Wire the Band:
- Overlap 1 inch of millinery wire to form a circle measuring 25½ inches. Sew the wire securely. Attach it to the top edge of the band between the knit stitches and ribbon edge.
- Buckram and Taffeta Crown:
- Cut the buckram into an 8½-inch circle. Create a dart from the edge to the center, overlapping by ½ inch, and sew firmly to shape the mandarin crown.
- Cut the taffeta into the same shape, adding ½ inch all around for seams. Sew the taffeta to the buckram, folding the extra fabric over the edge to cover the wire and finishing neatly.
- Attach Crown to Band:
- Sew the knitted crown to the mandarin-shaped buckram. Attach the buckram crown to the wired band, easing the fullness evenly.
- Embellishments:
- Sew a sequin and bead to each Grey stripe as follows: bring the needle through the center of the pattern, thread a sequin and bead, then pass back through the sequin and fabric. Keep the thread on the wrong side firm but not tight.
Finishing Touches
Press the hat lightly with a damp cloth and warm iron to shape it perfectly. The sequins and beads add a subtle sparkle, making this mandarin hat a timeless accessory perfect for formal occasions or as a vintage-inspired statement piece.
This updated design allows modern crafters to recreate a sophisticated mid-century hat while incorporating their own creative touches.
