The Shepherd Check Breton is a sophisticated knit hat that showcases the timeless elegance of the houndstooth pattern. Combining Fair Isle knitting techniques with structured millinery details, this hat features a striking black-and-white design, a reinforced brim, and chic feather accents. The carefully constructed crown and brim highlight the skill and precision of vintage knitting and hat-making, resulting in a piece that is both fashionable and functional.
Originally created in the mid-20th century, this hat reflects the era’s appreciation for refined accessories that blend artistry and practicality. The use of lightweight buckram and millinery wire ensures the brim maintains its shape, while the grosgrain ribbon adds a polished finish. The Shepherd Check Breton stands out as a versatile design, perfect for adding a touch of vintage sophistication to any outfit.
This updated pattern simplifies the original instructions while staying true to the hat’s classic design. Whether you’re recreating the original black-and-white palette or experimenting with bold colors, this project offers a rewarding opportunity to explore traditional knitting and millinery techniques. The Shepherd Check Breton is a timeless addition to any wardrobe, combining vintage charm with contemporary flair.
This pattern is transformed, adapted, and expanded from a public domain design originally published in Hats by Beehive Knitted and Crocheted (1950’s era). While the original design is in the public domain, the rewritten instructions and supplementary content on this site are ©Tiffany Bliss Mullins, 2024. All rights reserved. Have questions about this pattern, public domain, or copyright? Visit the FAQ page for answers and resources.
Vintage Houndstooth Knit Hat – “The Shepherd Check Breton”
Key Details
- Type: Knitted hat with a houndstooth Fair Isle pattern, structured brim, and feather accents.
- Size: Head size 22 inches.
- Gauge:
- 7½ stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch in Stockinette stitch.
- 8 stitches and 8 rows = 1 inch in Fair Isle.
- Features: Four-panel crown with Fair Isle houndstooth design, reinforced structured brim, and decorative millinery feathers.
Materials
- Yarn:
- 2 oz of 4-ply fingering yarn in Black (B).
- 2 oz of 4-ply fingering yarn in White (A).
- Knitting Needles: Two US Size 3 (3.25 mm) needles.
- Millinery Supplies:
- Lightweight bias buckram: 3½ inches wide, 30 inches long.
- Millinery wire: 33 inches long.
- Grosgrain ribbon: 1 inch wide, enough to fit head size plus ½ inch for seam.
- Decorative Elements: Two feathers for embellishment.
- Other Tools: Sewing thread, tapestry needle, scissors, pressing tools (damp cloth and iron).
Pattern
Crown
- Foundation:
- With White (A), cast on 44 stitches. Attach Black (B).
- Fair Isle Pattern:
- Work in Fair Isle using Chart A, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right.
- Rows 1–4: Follow the chart. Repeat these rows 4 times, then work from Row 21 to the end of Chart A.
- Repeat the above instructions to create three more identical pieces.
Brim
- Foundation:
- With White (A), cast on 49 stitches. Attach Black (B).
- Fair Isle Pattern:
- Work Rows 1–5 of Chart B, then repeat Rows 2–5 until the side edge of the brim measures approximately 26 inches, ending on Row 4 of the chart.
- Finish:
- Cast off using White (A).
Assembly
- Crown:
- Press all four crown pieces to measure 5½ inches long and 5¼ inches wide. Sew the four pieces together to form a complete crown.
- Brim:
- Press the brim to measure 26 inches long and 4½ inches wide. Sew the cast-on edge of the brim to the cast-off edge to form a circle.
- Pin the brim to the crown, right sides together, easing in fullness. Sew in place.
- Buckram and Wire:
- Stretch the buckram’s outer edge to curve, allowing it to measure 31 inches after stretching. Overlap by 1 inch, trim excess, and sew firmly.
- Make 1-inch-deep slashes around the inner edge, spaced 1¼ inches apart. Overlap every alternate slash by ¼ inch and sew securely to create the desired head size.
- Sew millinery wire to the outer edge of the buckram using a buttonhole stitch, overlapping wire ends by 2 inches for strength.
- Attach Buckram:
- Position the wired edge of the buckram 2¼ inches from the head seam of the knitted crown. Sew the inner edge of the buckram firmly to the head seam. Clip away extra buckram at the seam.
- Fold and Finish Brim:
- Fold the knitted brim over the buckram, stretching it to fit snugly over the wire. Sew the folded edge to the inside of the hat to cover seams.
- Attach the grosgrain ribbon along the inner seam for a clean finish.
- Final Touches:
- Press the brim bit by bit using a damp cloth and a hot iron, easing out fullness at the head edge and stiffening the buckram for a crisp shape.
- Sew feathers onto the brim for decorative flair.
This classic Shepherd Check Breton hat combines the elegance of Fair Isle knitting with the structural precision of millinery. Its timeless houndstooth pattern and chic brim make it perfect for formal occasions or as a statement accessory.
